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A visit to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs
November 6, 2011 by Lynne Rutter in Featured / 7 Comments.
Contact Lynne Rutter by email or visit Lynne's web site, http://www.lynnerutter.com/
One of my favorite places to visit in Paris is the spectacular Musée des Arts Décoratifs, a comprehensive collection of the best of French design: objects, architectural and applied arts from the middle ages to the present day. Generally uncrowded and serene, the museum is housed in the western wing of the Louvre, the beautiful Pavillon de Marsan, designed by architect Gaston Redon in 1905.
Like the Victorian and Albert in London, the MAK (Museum fur Angewandte Kunst) in Vienna, and the Legion of Honor in San Francisco, les Arts Décoratifs celebrates the finest work in applied arts, but this museum is decidedly French, and notable for the depth and breadth of its collection. Seemingly every possible decorative technique, material, or type of object can be found in the vast Arts Décoratifs inventories: tapestry, escritoire, eglomisé, shagreen, scenic wallpaper, jewelry, stained glass, wood, lacquer, plastic, and gold… but far from mind-boggling the collections are carefully edited and displayed chronologically, to encourage understanding of both the techniques used and the application of them. Meanwhile there are thousands of beautiful inspiring moments in each room.
Here are some highlights from my most recent visit in October 2011.
wood doors decorated with gilt grotesque ornament, from the 15th century
a display of chinoiserie furnishings dating from the 17th century
Photography in the museum is allowed without a flash, but many of the rooms are kept very dim to protect the fabrics and delicate surfaces. Despair not, the MAD has an excellent database of images of its collection on its website. Not only that, but the MAD bookshop at 107 Rue de Rivoli is outrageous. It is filled with fabulous books on your favorite subjects, all of them loaded with great pictures. Hard as you might try, you won’t be able to carry all the books out with you. Make note of the ISBN# so you can search for the books when you get home. [Here is a list of some of my recent favorites!]
detail of an entire wall of embossed leather, silver-gilt and amber-varnished to look like gold. circa 1600
One of the many period roomsets on display at the MAD, the Salon de l’hôtel Talairac, circa 1790, is an early example of Egyptian theme interior design, which became an all-out fad in the 19th century.
detail of a splendid marquetry cabinet, made in 1670. I could stare at this all day.
A small gilt "cabinet" room from l’hôtel de Rochegude à Avignon, 1720. Oui.
"Cabinet des Fables" from the hôtel Dangé, Paris, 1755 (repainted 1855)
Two adjoining rooms of boiserie taken from the hôtel Dangé on the Place Vendome, are displayed as one room here (you can see the gilt room in the mirror)- these really were meant to be small, intimate painted spaces.
a breathtaking monumental "papier peint panoramique" by Desfossé, 1855
detail from a Renaissance-Revival bedchamber, circa 1840
The boiserie decoration from the Renaissance-Revival bedchamber of Baron Hope is not typical for the Louis-Phillipe-era France. To me it seems more English Victorian. Have look at the rest of the room here.
The famous gilt and lacquered screen from Jeanne Lanvin's dining room is nearly 11 feet high, and was designed by Armand Albert Rateau, circa 1921
One of the most fabulous room sets in this museum is the private apartment of Jeanne Lanvin. Designed by Armand Albert Rateau and built in 1925, it’s the ultimate feminine Art Deco interior.
detail of the fabric in the bedroom of Jeanne Lanvin, custom blue silk embroidered with cotton and copper thread (image via MAD) The fabric on display in the museum is newly recreated and was all done by hand.
The lovely interior court of the Musée des Arts Decoratifs (image via MAD)
When you go:
Be sure to visit the Art Nouveau and Art Deco rooms, as well as the very interesting mid and late 20th century design rooms in the attic spaces of the pavillion.
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Other tips:
The Mode et Textile Museum is just next door.
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The Rue du Rivoli can be crowded and dirty. It’s so much more stylish to arrive via the Carrousel entrance. And be sure to dress fabulously, so you can have a bite at the Saut de Loup, the chic cafe on the terrace facing the Carrousel Gardens.
visit Lynne’s blog the Ornamentalist, for more about her travels, work in progress, ornament, and color.
©2011 Lynne Rutter
all images in this post by Lynne Rutter unless otherwise noted. Click on images to view larger.
Lynne Rutter Murals + Decorative Painting
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7 Comments
Jeff Huckaby
Thanks for sharing, Lynne! It is a definite must for anyone who is a decorative painter. There is so much inspiration here (to say the very least).
I’ve spent multiple hours staring at the trompe l’oeil in the ‘Salon de l’hôtel Talairac’ room. The atmosphere is always calm inside and often you feel as though you are alone in the place (which is wonderful).
…and the bookstore? Yum.
07 Nov 2011 07:11 am
NameTheresa Cheek
Extremely well written article Lynne! I did not know about the attic! The museum is one delight after another as you enter each section. Merci beaucoup!
07 Nov 2011 08:11 am
Alison Woolley
So delicious! Thanks for letting our eyes dwell on these lovely things for a while.
07 Nov 2011 08:11 am
Pat Ganino
Photos are amazing as always Lynne.
07 Nov 2011 04:11 pm
Lynne Rutter
thanks all, it’s validating to obsess over this stuff and know that i am not the only one.
08 Nov 2011 01:11 pm
Julie Stonehouse
Gotta add this to the bucket list! Thanks for the virtual tour Lynne.
09 Nov 2011 11:11 am
Ann @ Plumsiena
Darn! How did I possibly miss this?!
Back to Paris…. soon, very soon?
11 Nov 2011 11:11 pm
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